Isabel Marant // H&M Reveal

Finally after the wait we finally get to see pictures of the Isabel Marant collection for H&M, I'm really interested in what people think of the collection. I personally think it'll go down well, theres a lot of desirable pieces in there and perfect for the colder months around its release in November 2014. I think there's a good level of practicality about the collection still retaining a lot of style the balance of it all works well. 

 

 

 

After seeing it whats everybodys thoughts? My favourite look has to be Milla Jovovich and that dress, while I'm not sure about the styling of the boots alongside it I think the dress is gorgeous, to die for! I also think those leather cropped trousers are going to be one of the most popular pieces of the whole collection, they'd easily slip in perfectly to anyone's wardrobe right? 

With those knits and jackets I really think Marant's onto a winner here, a really interesting collection but perfect with her aesthetic. In stores November 2014 Marant X H&M will be released on the world! Also comment and let me know what you think I want to see what your opinions are! 

Exhibition // Universal Everything & You

// Universal Everything & You // 

21st September 2013 - 7th February 2014

Today I headed out with a friend to check out the Universal Everything & You exhibition which is on at the Science Museum in Kensington, I didn't really know what to expect mainly because it wasn't  fashion orientated. I have to admit after seeing it I found it a really interesting mix of visual and auditory  stimiulation.

The show was made of two different pieces, one called presence was a four screen visual performance using dance and movement alongside graphics for wonderfully eerie dances. The other is a more interactive piece called 1000 hands, this asked the audience to become a part of the art drawing lines then displaying them as a part of the four screens of the middle of the room.

// Presence // 

// Video 1 // // Video 2 // // Video 3 //

Of course I couldn't see any of this and try grabbing photos and videos. If you want to see the videos then links for all three I recorded are above! Presence was a really interesting set of videos mainly because of how the graphics and the body worked together forming almost a digital costume, in a sense a kind of digital fashion. Digital Fashion, applying clothing/costume via computer to me is obviously an interesting idea which could be developed in a way to completely change how people think about design or explaining how garments would move or flow.

// 1000 Hands // 

// Video 1// // Video 2//

1000 Hands was the other half of the video experience, displaying like some magical undersea party with all different life forms dancing it was definitely interesting! Adding to the fun of it all was the fact it was an audience controlled idea, you're free to download the 1000 hands app and contribute to the project creating your own line lifeform. You can change its colour, complexity and energy which create any manor of shapes and form, once they're submitted watch them come to life as they join the other creations.

I could've happily sat for hours hypnotised by these amazing lightshows, watching them move and the changes between them all. With the exhibition there until February and it being free people you have no excuse not to go see this! It's fun but also interesting to see where design could be heading, especially in regards with new technology Presence and 1000 Hands deffinitely leave you thinking about them once you leave!

Sexism // Rising Again

Women being used as objects of desire or as a promotional tool, we see it over and over yet it nothing ever seems to change. Last time I talked about this issue was back May with a post all about what I'd refer to as 'Hipster Sexism', if you missed the post you can catch up all about it // here //. I felt like currently this seems to be an issue which keeps rearing it's ugly head.

First point of call in the wide array of all things wrong is this video, I'm sure many of you will have seen it and have an opinion on it. Whether you think the song is catchy or not we still have to question why the video has been directed in such a way and how the director Diane Martel can even dare think the video isn't sexist, making comments such as: 

"Look at Emily Ratajkowski’s performance; it’s very, very funny and subtly ridiculing."

"I directed the girls to look into the camera, this is very intentional and they do it most of the time"

Here is where the main issue lies with me, hipster sexism is all based around the idea of the joke being there and everyone being aware. It plays up to the idea that something is meant in an ironic way or delivers a mocking fun/playful feel. She talks about how it was all a perfomance she intended to achieve which means it's not sexist. I think Diane is completely wrong she knows it is what it is, wouldn't it not be more interesting to sexualise the men and flip the gender conventions we hold? 

Here we have yet another video to cause controversy, now of course Miley's doing this whole new 'image' change and coming from her Disney past you can't blame her although you could blame the director. Amazingly enough we already all know the director, none other than Terry Richardson. Suddenly all the pieces fall into place, here you have a man who has such a massive part in the whole idea of Hipster Sexism.

Amazingly if you listen to the song it's lyrics seem to hold a lot of meaning, it could've become a powerful anthem for women but sadly no 'Uncle Terry' got his hands on it. With pop music nudity is almost a given, we've seen it all before but here we see Miley and a sledge hammer a little too close. Something she was apparently 'told' to do and encouraged into by Terry...

Caryn Franklin Co-Founder of //All Walks Campagin// heads to twitter to voice her opinion about the video, thankfully disapproving of Terry and making her opinions known. Thank god women like her exist, willing to educate and celebrate diversity and challenge real issues!

The main issue here is the fact Hipster Sexism is seen as a 'trend'. It's seen as a clever selling tool rather than a degrading issue to be taken seriously. All I hope is the world stop being such a passive audience and wake up to what is going on. 

 Are people making an issue where there's not one or is Hipster Sexism really being used as a tool to degrade women but being passed off as empowering them, what do people think? Let me know!

Vivienne Westwood // 'Everyone buys too many clothes'

Earlier this week Vivienne Westwood was quoted saying 'Everybody buys too many clothes', you can find the article //here//. When I heard what Vivienne had to say it started me off thinking about clothes and the way we purchase. 

Vivienne made comments at her recent LFW, touching on various issues about how we treat fashion and culture: 

"Buy less. Choose well. Make it last. Quality, not quantity. Everybody's buying far too many clothes."

"I mean, I know I'm lucky, I can just take things and borrow them and I'm just okay, but I hate having too many clothes. And I think that poor people should be even more careful.It doesn't mean therefore you have to just buy anything cheap. Instead of buying six things, buy one thing that you really like. Don't keep buying just for the sake of it."

"I just think people should invest in the world. Don't invest in fashion, but invest in the world. The first thing they can do, if they live in a town, is they can go to art galleries."

Now I've seen a lot of people saying they have an issue with what Vivienne has said, especially since she's advertised for unpaid intern positions. With all that aside I think she's exactly right! One thing I truly respect about Vivienne is the fact she's one of the last remaining desginers to speak her mind, if she believes in a cause she'll fight for it, using her position to raise awareness. 

Wednesday night I found myself having a conversation very similar to this with a friend, talking student loans and attempting to spend it better this term, if I was going to be buying clothes trying to buy higher quality. We'd discussed pretty much this whole concept, if you're buying better quality you're not adding to the massive disasters caused by fast fashion such as factory collapses and the environmental effect which follows with fast fashion. 

Fast fashion uses a lot of the worlds resources but also because of it's lifespan is moderately cheaper, which keeps profit costs lower and lower. The main issue here is about sensible buying and thoughtful buying, try to buy something you're going to keep and reuse! You'd hardly throw away anything by Chanel where as anything by Primark you'd be happy to disown!

Also passing comments such as 'visit art galleries' she touched on yet another issue we mentioned, espeically since the recession we need to invest in culture as opposed to materialistic belongings! With the new school year just about to start it's almost like a new year and a few new resolutions need to be made. 

Firstly I'm going to attempt better buying, choosing quality over cost! Secondly I wanted to discover more culture rather than wasting time just being part of the passive audience we have become! I wouldn't mind hearing other people's opinions about this topic, do you think Vivienne is right? Do you think we do need to buy less and invest our money in better quality?

Hopefully in a few months I'll be able to tell you how change of purchasing has gone!

Press Viewing // The Glamour of Bellville Sassoon

Today I was lucky enough to attend the press viewing of the Fashion and Textiles museum's newest exhibition, The Glamour of Bellville Sassoon. 

The exhibition opens on 20th September 2013 and will run until11th January 2014, the retrospective contains over 100 designs and 80 dresses commissioned by many stylish women of the world. If you've never heard of Bellville Sassoon then I suggest you research them instantly! Being one of Britian's most respected couture labels their reputation definitely reflects the amazing work and creations designed by the label. 

The first room I entered was what is referred to as the 'Royal Room' highlighting some of the fabulous clients Bellville Sassoon have designer for. Royals include names such as Princess Margaret, Princess Anne and most famously Princess Diana to whom the label was one of her favourites! The room contains dresses and designs which highlight the great ideas and also suggestions by the royals in regards to designs. For example designs have hand written comments such as 'bright pink one' and also letters thanking David Sassoon for his work.

Following onto the next room you really discover how brilliant a collection of dresses the Fashion and Textiles Museum have gathered for this exhibition. The whole room and upstairs filled with elegance and glamour highlighting exactly why Bellville Sassoon were number one for glamour. I think even the exhibitions name is a perfect description for what is delivered, glamour and lots of it. 

Looking around the exhibition shows yet more reasons as to why Bellville Sassoon earned such a strong reputation as they have, looking at the various details in dressing and designs the dresses speak on their own. If I had to describe a Bellville Sassoon dress in three words I'd probably choose - timeless, elegant and flattering. These dresses would still remain as beautiful as the time period as they were created and yet still flatter a woman making her look like a princess. 

After heading up the stairs I discovered what I'd think was my favourite area of the whole exhibition, with so many different details and embellishments I was amazed at how much detail had gone into various dresses. One thing I respect about the whole collection and brand is how cohesive they are and true to nature, they always managed to create something magical. 

These had to be my two favourite dresses of all of the dresses I saw I just think the embellishments on both are of such beauty and especially of a standard I don't think you'd see today. I think not only are they so classic but still remain a sight of such beauty today. 

Another great part of the whole retrospective was the fact the designs were also on display which really showed just how Bellville Sassoon really captured glamour! I managed to get a pictures of a few of my favourites. I love the difference between David Sassoon's illustrations and Lorcan Mullany's, I think it's interesting to see how the brands illustrations went from a couture feel to a more ready-to-wear idea while still maintaining the glamour aesthetic. 

I managed to see David Sassoon and ask him a few questions about his work and Bellville Sassoon:

What were the main issues you kept in mind while designing?

I'd describe myself as a kind designer, I like to flatter women and make them feel good. I tended to follow the mood of fashion too, trying to keep it very fresh especially asking younger assistants their views. 

What do you feel about glamours relevance today, do you think it still stands? 

I think theres been a big change in fashion, clothes are a lot more sexy now. In the past mainly the 50's and 60's there was a lot of set rules and conventions you had to follow for example Diana was one of the first royals to not always wear a hat. Theres been a big easing of the rules of fashion. 

How did Bellville Sassoon develop as a brand? 

I think there was a big change as we moved from just couture to selling worldwide places such as France, Italy and the Far East. Making clothes which we were able to sell all over the world.

What are some important characteristics of your work?

I'd definitely say fit and colour really affected my work, I think different moods really helped in decision making. For a certain mood you'd pick patterns and colours you'd never go blind into picking fabrics.

Are you happy about how the exhibition has turned out? 

Yes! The fashion and Textiles museum have been lovely to work and their team too. I feel like the exhibition really reflects the mood of the clothing and I really like the way its been put together.

There you have it! Belville Sassoon a massive name and a great retrospective to visit! If you have the chance I strongly suggest you go! I think the exhibition really does have a really great feel to it, the dresses and designs on show are classics forever wonderful and graceful. Truly masterpieces that any woman would be lucky to wear or have. A collection of designs and dresses to be truly respected and admired.

LFW // My Saturday & Sunday

London Fashion Week, a celebration of fashion and one of the most hectic times on the fashion calender. There's always so much and me being me I always wanna be in on the action, thankfully I managed to get myself two exciting dressing jobs for fashion week! 

I managed to be able to dress for both House of Holland and Paul Smith which were two quite different but both brilliant shows, each really reflecting their different styles and aesthetics. Dressing fashion shows is so much fun, ever since doing it for GFW I've wanted to do it again so when the chance to do it again arose of course I took it!

// House of Holland // 

First up was the House of Holland show, the show had a mix of pinks, purples and oranges working in perfect harmony. With touches of painted leather, lace and patterns his show was definitely something to be noticed, with an a list group sitting ready for the show to begin he unleashed his SS 14 collection onto London. 

 

I think these have to be my four favourite looks from the whole collection, the first two being the ones I dressed so I have to be a little bias towards them. Still I think the pattern is really interesting and love the embellishment on the second and fourth looks, especially alongside the colours! The jacket from look three has to be my favourite piece, orange and metallics its shiny and uses a colour I think is so underappreciated but it's deffinitely my favourite my far! 

// Paul Smith // 

My second show to dress was Paul Smith which had a totally different feel to House of Holland, which I'd have expected it reflected that their brand. One of my problems with most brands is with their SS collectins and the clothes not actually reflecting the season they're for and I think Paul Smith completely ticked every box for me, the clothes are perfect for summer. 

 

 

These have to be my favourite four of all the looks on show, again the model I've dressed is in the line up partly bias but also the clothes looked amazing on her! I think the dress from look one and the jacket from look 2 have to be my favourite pieces, I think both of the colour schemes of them work great together. The pink jacket with white is also another great look, two colour schemes which work together great and also would fit perfectly for a Paul Smith woman. The same can be said for look four, I think it's a really great silhouette and sits so well on the body!

I have to say both of the shows we're really fun and great to work at, I enjoyed being able to be behind the scenes of big fashion shows and seeing how they work. It's great to be able to see the garments first hand, personally I think that pictures often don't do the look justice once you've seen them in the flesh! Hopefully I'll be able to do something similar next season!