Saturday, 22 June 2013

Dolce & Gabbana // Tax Evasion

With everything that is fashion law and politics flying around at the moment and to add to the mix there's now news of Dolce and Gabbana being guilty of tax evasion. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have both been sentanced to one year and eight months in prison after a jury 


The lawsuit looks at the label's 2004 deal with Gado Srl and the sale of their signature and D&G lines. Italian authorities believe that this sale was a way of evading taxes in Italy, which are described as high.  The prosecutor Gaetano Ruta also believes board member Cristiana Ruella and Luciano Patelli should also be sent to prison.

I've seen various comments surrounding this issue and I think that something needs to be done if it is true, they maye appeal the current decision. I think that we've seen so much from other brands and tax evasion and people's in response to that, in instances where this has happened before people have spoke about boycotts. If this was to happen for Dolce and Gabbana then it could be really fatal to them especially if people decide to just turn their backs to the brand.

It depends how serious people feel about this especially in our current economic climate but this could cause trouble and could possibly be the start of a deeper look into fashion's taxes?


Barbara Hulanicki // Boring Style

So I was checking out some fashion news on Vogue and I discovered this piece about Barbara Hulanicki saying 'Women have boring wardrobes' she continues to talk about how people's style has become so predictable. 

If you want to check the article out you can find it //here//


Barbara thinks theres more focus on whats actually fashionable rather than looking at how we put clothes together. Honestly I think Barbara is right here, we seem to be so focused around what's on trend or who's collections just been shown. I think people have forgotten how fun fashion can be, we're constantly taking fashion in and it being judged so I guess we're scared to take as many risks.

Is this why street style is seen as such an interesting topic? Is this why we love people's blogs who make style posts? If something's different and stands out we're drawn to it so is Barbara highlighting how these vary basic ideas are emphasised because the norm is so boring.

She also says "it's very difficult to know what to wear now. That's why I always wear black", does this mean ideas such as style manifestos need to something we all adapt to. Like women of the past such as Schiaparelli who lived by a manifesto is Barbara highlighting there's a need for more personal considered style choices and rules?


Thursday, 20 June 2013

Balenciaga Suing // Nicolas Ghesquiere

For a few days it's been everywhere about Balenciaga suing Nicolas Ghesquiere, we all know about him and Balenciaga's problems which lead to his departure last year. Nicolas then followed up and finally revealed all with his controversial interview for System. 


In his interview Ghesquiere made comments about how he felt frustrated at the brand, he ended up feeling alone and felt everything had become so corporate it was no longer about fashion anymore. He was left feeling unappreciated and they only cared about merchadising and the results. Nicolas even made comment of saying it all became so dehumanised, it was all about branding and corporate sales. 

As James St James once said 'don't dis anyone in press' press instantly becomes the truth and perhaps Nicolas could have thought about his choice to go public on their fued. I mean I think it's good that he went to press and talked about it rather than slating them on social media sites, he managed to remain fairly degnified about the whole affair. 

I guess it's all a rule of business not to act in such a way and also bite the hand that feeds, I don't know depends what peoples thoughts are on this issue? 

Christopher Shannon // SS 14

My favourite of Day Three, is Christopher Shannon. Like I've talked about in previous LC:M colour has been my main focus and is a direction for menswear to head and to move way from such drab colours. Christopher Shannon's collection had so many colours in it I could have cried. 




I've seen so many bright colours and this is exactly what Christopher Shannon brought us, I saw someone make a comment saying 'Christopher Shannon bringing me back to colour' and I thought what a perfect way to describe his collection. My favourite look has to be the green, I love the materials used and the colour I'd mentioned green being another main trend I'd seen emerging but who wouldn't want that look!?Another thing to mention is the fact Christopher doesn't only use really bright colours there were also some muted tones, whites and blacks too there was so much range on show.



LC:M // Day Three

The final day of LC:M was brimming with creativity and clever design as expected and what a final day of collections it was!

//Shaun Samson//

Shaun Samson has the perfect collection of really simple yet effective fashion, I think that's one of the main points that stands out here. Fashion can always be a subject where people adapt the mentality of 'more is better' but I think this completely trashes this idea, it's clean simple and brilliant. I love the colour's here they fit perfectly with the whole theme on Shauns collection. 

//Fashion East - Joseph Turvey//



Joseph Turvey really manages to bring colour pattern into whites, I love how his work looks like coloured shapes have been projected onto his work. His mixes of yellows, blues and pinks really stand out whilst still managing to not overpower the rest of the patterns in his looks. I absolutely love that he has his moels with matching hair too, it really is a perfect acompliment to all of the looks. He has a really nice balance of florals and white whilst keeping his work smart and casual too, a really intriguing collection. 

//Fashion East - Kit Neale//



Kit Neale is one of my favourite designers under the Fashion East name, I think his designs and work are great. This collection is perfectly playful using childrens play maps in his work, bringing our childhood's back to all of us to wear now. I love his playful uses of colour reminscent of a child's scribbles, his collection based all around Peckham too it's basically my version of a perfect balance of colour and pattern. I think he's created a grown up version of childrens paradise and adventure. 

 //Nasir Mazhar//


Nasir Mazhar's first time showcasing in London Collection's: Men and what a collection it was, whilst using feminine pinks, his collection is a really good balance of street/sportswear. I think is choice of colour palette and cut aren't expected to work together but they do, Nasir's collection highlight's that pink can not only be a men's colour but doesn't subtract from someone's masculinity too. My favourite piece of the collection being the red, black and metallic I just love the perfect balances of colour and materials including the headpiece. 

Overall there have been so many great shows including Burberry Prorsum who definitely just confirmed for my that menswear is totally heading in the way of colour, which I obviously love and I've voiced my opinions of this before. If anything LC:M has just proved the fact menswear is moving in a direction I like and London design is as strong as ever. 








Wednesday, 19 June 2013

Katie Eary // SS 14

Katie Eary last season delivered one of my favourite collections of LC:M and again she delivers what I'd describe as genius. I honestly don't know how she does it, I really don't!





A collection mixing reds and oranges with flamingos and leopard print Katie Eary has such an unusual mix of taste and yet pulls it all together. Her black, blue and pink pattern mix from last season is a total change from this season, but she really has just a brilliant eye for pattern and colour. Obviously because of their places on the colour spectrum I expect orange and red to be a total clash and yet Katie Eary manages to get them to work together perfectly. 

I love the mix of red, orange and yellow in the image in the centre, it all manages to flow and work without being too much. Obviously not a menswear collection for the faint hearted but this is exactly where menswear needs to move to in terms of pushing boundaries. I always voice how I feel menswear always remains safe and uninteresting and I love how Katie Eary just crushes those thoughts for me. 



LC:M // Day Two

The second day of LCM continued providing everyone with more menswear delights, with everything going on it's taken me longer than I'd have wanted to get these posts up here. They are finally done!

//JW Anderson// 
 
JW Anderson again bringing us something fascinating to blur the lines between menswear and womenswear. In my opinion I think JW has really toned down this collection this time it seems to have provided less of a shock value and provided us with a really delicate toned down collection. JW brought interesting shapes and choices and really did live up to his standards. 

//Sibling// 

The newest Sibling collection had a really interesting feel to it, it has an american jock feel too. I love the use of colour, it's interesting to see pastel colours making a reappearance to fashion. It's interesting a mix of knitted sportswear in various colours too. I think Sibling bring a really diverse mix of looks through out their collection and it still flows together really well, my favourite looks have to be the blue leopard print pieces I just think they really pop and stand out.


//KTZ//

As normal KTZ provide me with exactly what I expect from a KTZ collection, I think KTZ always excite me bringing some really cleverly constructed lookss together. Their collection had a real focus on world affairs that flows throughout with various symbols in their looks. I love how the silver pops against the black, really making it stand out KTZ brought a really interesting collection especially with various looks including map based prints which are some of my favourite of LC:M.

Day Two really provided some interesting collections and looks, including Kit Neale, KTZ and Katie Eary. I think LC:M really highlights how strong menswear desgin can be and currently is.