Sexism // Rising Again

Women being used as objects of desire or as a promotional tool, we see it over and over yet it nothing ever seems to change. Last time I talked about this issue was back May with a post all about what I'd refer to as 'Hipster Sexism', if you missed the post you can catch up all about it // here //. I felt like currently this seems to be an issue which keeps rearing it's ugly head.

First point of call in the wide array of all things wrong is this video, I'm sure many of you will have seen it and have an opinion on it. Whether you think the song is catchy or not we still have to question why the video has been directed in such a way and how the director Diane Martel can even dare think the video isn't sexist, making comments such as: 

"Look at Emily Ratajkowski’s performance; it’s very, very funny and subtly ridiculing."

"I directed the girls to look into the camera, this is very intentional and they do it most of the time"

Here is where the main issue lies with me, hipster sexism is all based around the idea of the joke being there and everyone being aware. It plays up to the idea that something is meant in an ironic way or delivers a mocking fun/playful feel. She talks about how it was all a perfomance she intended to achieve which means it's not sexist. I think Diane is completely wrong she knows it is what it is, wouldn't it not be more interesting to sexualise the men and flip the gender conventions we hold? 

Here we have yet another video to cause controversy, now of course Miley's doing this whole new 'image' change and coming from her Disney past you can't blame her although you could blame the director. Amazingly enough we already all know the director, none other than Terry Richardson. Suddenly all the pieces fall into place, here you have a man who has such a massive part in the whole idea of Hipster Sexism.

Amazingly if you listen to the song it's lyrics seem to hold a lot of meaning, it could've become a powerful anthem for women but sadly no 'Uncle Terry' got his hands on it. With pop music nudity is almost a given, we've seen it all before but here we see Miley and a sledge hammer a little too close. Something she was apparently 'told' to do and encouraged into by Terry...

Caryn Franklin Co-Founder of //All Walks Campagin// heads to twitter to voice her opinion about the video, thankfully disapproving of Terry and making her opinions known. Thank god women like her exist, willing to educate and celebrate diversity and challenge real issues!

The main issue here is the fact Hipster Sexism is seen as a 'trend'. It's seen as a clever selling tool rather than a degrading issue to be taken seriously. All I hope is the world stop being such a passive audience and wake up to what is going on. 

 Are people making an issue where there's not one or is Hipster Sexism really being used as a tool to degrade women but being passed off as empowering them, what do people think? Let me know!

Vivienne Westwood // 'Everyone buys too many clothes'

Earlier this week Vivienne Westwood was quoted saying 'Everybody buys too many clothes', you can find the article //here//. When I heard what Vivienne had to say it started me off thinking about clothes and the way we purchase. 

Vivienne made comments at her recent LFW, touching on various issues about how we treat fashion and culture: 

"Buy less. Choose well. Make it last. Quality, not quantity. Everybody's buying far too many clothes."

"I mean, I know I'm lucky, I can just take things and borrow them and I'm just okay, but I hate having too many clothes. And I think that poor people should be even more careful.It doesn't mean therefore you have to just buy anything cheap. Instead of buying six things, buy one thing that you really like. Don't keep buying just for the sake of it."

"I just think people should invest in the world. Don't invest in fashion, but invest in the world. The first thing they can do, if they live in a town, is they can go to art galleries."

Now I've seen a lot of people saying they have an issue with what Vivienne has said, especially since she's advertised for unpaid intern positions. With all that aside I think she's exactly right! One thing I truly respect about Vivienne is the fact she's one of the last remaining desginers to speak her mind, if she believes in a cause she'll fight for it, using her position to raise awareness. 

Wednesday night I found myself having a conversation very similar to this with a friend, talking student loans and attempting to spend it better this term, if I was going to be buying clothes trying to buy higher quality. We'd discussed pretty much this whole concept, if you're buying better quality you're not adding to the massive disasters caused by fast fashion such as factory collapses and the environmental effect which follows with fast fashion. 

Fast fashion uses a lot of the worlds resources but also because of it's lifespan is moderately cheaper, which keeps profit costs lower and lower. The main issue here is about sensible buying and thoughtful buying, try to buy something you're going to keep and reuse! You'd hardly throw away anything by Chanel where as anything by Primark you'd be happy to disown!

Also passing comments such as 'visit art galleries' she touched on yet another issue we mentioned, espeically since the recession we need to invest in culture as opposed to materialistic belongings! With the new school year just about to start it's almost like a new year and a few new resolutions need to be made. 

Firstly I'm going to attempt better buying, choosing quality over cost! Secondly I wanted to discover more culture rather than wasting time just being part of the passive audience we have become! I wouldn't mind hearing other people's opinions about this topic, do you think Vivienne is right? Do you think we do need to buy less and invest our money in better quality?

Hopefully in a few months I'll be able to tell you how change of purchasing has gone!

Press Viewing // The Glamour of Bellville Sassoon

Today I was lucky enough to attend the press viewing of the Fashion and Textiles museum's newest exhibition, The Glamour of Bellville Sassoon. 

The exhibition opens on 20th September 2013 and will run until11th January 2014, the retrospective contains over 100 designs and 80 dresses commissioned by many stylish women of the world. If you've never heard of Bellville Sassoon then I suggest you research them instantly! Being one of Britian's most respected couture labels their reputation definitely reflects the amazing work and creations designed by the label. 

The first room I entered was what is referred to as the 'Royal Room' highlighting some of the fabulous clients Bellville Sassoon have designer for. Royals include names such as Princess Margaret, Princess Anne and most famously Princess Diana to whom the label was one of her favourites! The room contains dresses and designs which highlight the great ideas and also suggestions by the royals in regards to designs. For example designs have hand written comments such as 'bright pink one' and also letters thanking David Sassoon for his work.

Following onto the next room you really discover how brilliant a collection of dresses the Fashion and Textiles Museum have gathered for this exhibition. The whole room and upstairs filled with elegance and glamour highlighting exactly why Bellville Sassoon were number one for glamour. I think even the exhibitions name is a perfect description for what is delivered, glamour and lots of it. 

Looking around the exhibition shows yet more reasons as to why Bellville Sassoon earned such a strong reputation as they have, looking at the various details in dressing and designs the dresses speak on their own. If I had to describe a Bellville Sassoon dress in three words I'd probably choose - timeless, elegant and flattering. These dresses would still remain as beautiful as the time period as they were created and yet still flatter a woman making her look like a princess. 

After heading up the stairs I discovered what I'd think was my favourite area of the whole exhibition, with so many different details and embellishments I was amazed at how much detail had gone into various dresses. One thing I respect about the whole collection and brand is how cohesive they are and true to nature, they always managed to create something magical. 

These had to be my two favourite dresses of all of the dresses I saw I just think the embellishments on both are of such beauty and especially of a standard I don't think you'd see today. I think not only are they so classic but still remain a sight of such beauty today. 

Another great part of the whole retrospective was the fact the designs were also on display which really showed just how Bellville Sassoon really captured glamour! I managed to get a pictures of a few of my favourites. I love the difference between David Sassoon's illustrations and Lorcan Mullany's, I think it's interesting to see how the brands illustrations went from a couture feel to a more ready-to-wear idea while still maintaining the glamour aesthetic. 

I managed to see David Sassoon and ask him a few questions about his work and Bellville Sassoon:

What were the main issues you kept in mind while designing?

I'd describe myself as a kind designer, I like to flatter women and make them feel good. I tended to follow the mood of fashion too, trying to keep it very fresh especially asking younger assistants their views. 

What do you feel about glamours relevance today, do you think it still stands? 

I think theres been a big change in fashion, clothes are a lot more sexy now. In the past mainly the 50's and 60's there was a lot of set rules and conventions you had to follow for example Diana was one of the first royals to not always wear a hat. Theres been a big easing of the rules of fashion. 

How did Bellville Sassoon develop as a brand? 

I think there was a big change as we moved from just couture to selling worldwide places such as France, Italy and the Far East. Making clothes which we were able to sell all over the world.

What are some important characteristics of your work?

I'd definitely say fit and colour really affected my work, I think different moods really helped in decision making. For a certain mood you'd pick patterns and colours you'd never go blind into picking fabrics.

Are you happy about how the exhibition has turned out? 

Yes! The fashion and Textiles museum have been lovely to work and their team too. I feel like the exhibition really reflects the mood of the clothing and I really like the way its been put together.

There you have it! Belville Sassoon a massive name and a great retrospective to visit! If you have the chance I strongly suggest you go! I think the exhibition really does have a really great feel to it, the dresses and designs on show are classics forever wonderful and graceful. Truly masterpieces that any woman would be lucky to wear or have. A collection of designs and dresses to be truly respected and admired.

LFW // My Saturday & Sunday

London Fashion Week, a celebration of fashion and one of the most hectic times on the fashion calender. There's always so much and me being me I always wanna be in on the action, thankfully I managed to get myself two exciting dressing jobs for fashion week! 

I managed to be able to dress for both House of Holland and Paul Smith which were two quite different but both brilliant shows, each really reflecting their different styles and aesthetics. Dressing fashion shows is so much fun, ever since doing it for GFW I've wanted to do it again so when the chance to do it again arose of course I took it!

// House of Holland // 

First up was the House of Holland show, the show had a mix of pinks, purples and oranges working in perfect harmony. With touches of painted leather, lace and patterns his show was definitely something to be noticed, with an a list group sitting ready for the show to begin he unleashed his SS 14 collection onto London. 

 

I think these have to be my four favourite looks from the whole collection, the first two being the ones I dressed so I have to be a little bias towards them. Still I think the pattern is really interesting and love the embellishment on the second and fourth looks, especially alongside the colours! The jacket from look three has to be my favourite piece, orange and metallics its shiny and uses a colour I think is so underappreciated but it's deffinitely my favourite my far! 

// Paul Smith // 

My second show to dress was Paul Smith which had a totally different feel to House of Holland, which I'd have expected it reflected that their brand. One of my problems with most brands is with their SS collectins and the clothes not actually reflecting the season they're for and I think Paul Smith completely ticked every box for me, the clothes are perfect for summer. 

 

 

These have to be my favourite four of all the looks on show, again the model I've dressed is in the line up partly bias but also the clothes looked amazing on her! I think the dress from look one and the jacket from look 2 have to be my favourite pieces, I think both of the colour schemes of them work great together. The pink jacket with white is also another great look, two colour schemes which work together great and also would fit perfectly for a Paul Smith woman. The same can be said for look four, I think it's a really great silhouette and sits so well on the body!

I have to say both of the shows we're really fun and great to work at, I enjoyed being able to be behind the scenes of big fashion shows and seeing how they work. It's great to be able to see the garments first hand, personally I think that pictures often don't do the look justice once you've seen them in the flesh! Hopefully I'll be able to do something similar next season!

Viva Glam // Original Covergirl Returns

From one return to another, firstly returning after finally moving back to London we have some interesting news in fashion. Rupaul is set to return as the face of Viva Glam after almost two decades!

For those of you who don't know about Viva Glam, where the hell have you been hiding created in 1994 it's probaby the best idea for cosmetics ever thought up.

Mac's Viva Glam range is a special range where the total costs of the cosmetics all go to help raise money to fight HIV/AIDS, the brilliance of it being the fact the whole percentage not just a slice goes to fighting the cause. Rewind to 1994 and we have Rupaul Charles as the face of Viva Glam, probably one of their biggest personalities in Viva Glam's long life! Well Rupaul is set to cause a storm returning with a lipstick and lip gloss for 2013. 

Personally I'm so excited to hear this news and not just because I love Rupaul! I think Viva Glam is such a brilliant idea, it's really great to see massive beauty or fashion companies giving something back, which Viva Glam do oh so well. 

I just can't wait to see what they shoot for a campaign photo! 

Film // Fashions 'Pope' and Women's Tales

Love him or hate him Karl Lagerfeld is a massive fashion name and is a household name, if you pray at the mans shoes then you might be interested to hear about a four hour German documentary by Martina Neuen. 

"Mode Als Religon" is a project comparing fashion to religion, which if fashion is your life it's a fairly good metaphor for the importance of fashion. Neuen comparin fashion devoiton to a relgious devotion, an idea I love especially since there are so many people to whom fashion is their religion. 

"Fashion involves powerful symbols, a tight-knit community, age-old rituals and a system of beliefs"

The film shot over 16 months follows Lagerfeld, Neuen also speaks to neurologists about how the emotions of a Catholic priest and devoted fashion addict react in the face of the their 'religions'. A comment which I find amazing, has fashion almost become a religion of sorts. 

Karl being Karl apparently seems himself as a fashion 'Pope' but would we expect anything less from Karl Lagerfeld himself. Also contaiting interviews with massive fashion names such as Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista, Suzy Menkes and Sarah Jessica Parker it should be a must see for any who consider fashion their religion. 

If im honest I can't wait to see this when I get the chance, with such a really interesting stance and view point. I love fashion films and especially seing a deeper insight into peoples careers, The September Issue and Boss Woman being so interesing. 

I remember also catching BBC4 documentary The Secret World of Haute Couture and how Karl was featured in that was interesting so it'll be great to have a better insight. Also looking forward to see how our minds view fashion.

 Premiering September 7th 2013, Mode Als Religion is definitely one to watch out for. 

Also for anyone who loves fashion film Mui Mui are set to return the Venince Internation Film Festival on August 29th. Showing the latest in their series of silent short films named Women's Tales, the films focus on the roles of women and after shall have discussion panels about the roles of women in cinema. 

Other titles in the series include: 

 "The Power Room" Women's Tales #1 by Zoe Cassavetes 

"Muta" Women's Tales #2 by Lucrecia Martel 

"The Woman's Dress" Women's Tales #3 by Giada Colagrande

"It's Getting Late" Women's Tales #4 by Massy Tadjedin

"The Door" Women's Tales #5 by Ava DuVernay

All of the titles above which can be found //here// for anyone looking to watch them. Which I suggest you do, these wonderful silent films are so stunning and have so much depth to them. They're all perfectly filmed and remind me how film can be used in such a brilliant way.

Important dates for people's diary are August 29th and September 7th! 

Hope people get to catch both and i'll have to post my thoughts when I have.

Men // Clothing or Fashion?

Recently I've seen the topic of whether we think men are interesting with clothing or fashion being brought up, saying that men don't tend to respond as much to catwalks and menswear tending to take more time to focus on celebritys and male icons. 

I guess this is shown by the types of males people choose to look up to, tending to look up for more sports personalities rather than fashion icons. Generally saying they care more about brands linked with David Beckham or Tom Daley as opposed to various fashion names like Karl Lagerfeld or Terry Richardson. Although not saying that some men aren't influenced by those people either but the majority prefer celebrity endorsments over fashion.  

I think it is interesting how to women fashion, who's wearing what seems to be such a massive deal but with menswear there's still not as much of a hype. Why? There are some brilliant menswear designers out there, are men scared to admit they like fashion and it's still seen as a threat to their masculinity?

Recently Tommy Hilfiger said they'd be pulling out of menswear, yet menswear amounts to 60% of their sales. They've said they want to view other avenues to promote menswear. Personally I think menswear needs this added strength of having its own time of focus and to remove your company may not be the brightest of ideas but perhaps having your brand seen as less fashion based you're more clothing and therefor appeal to men? Is it the factor of men and peers opinions another reason men choose clothing not fashion?